Surf's Up

If you would have asked me as a freshman in high school I might have suggested this would be me about the age I am now (well, perhaps a bit older). I had a wet suit, I had a surfboard, I went to the beach once or twice a week. It took me years to come to terms with the fact that I don’t actually like the beach, but I figured out I can’t surf pretty quickly. I’m from California, I’m supposed to love the beach right? Well, it’s nice to look at, and I’ll enjoy it from the comfort of my Airstream thanks very much. And I’ll leave the surfing to those that can actually do it, like this old shredder by builder vir-a-cocha. Tear it up dude.